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<channel>
	<title>Freshman Farmer - New Organic Farms Set Roots</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com</link>
	<description>Peaceful Valley gets organic farms to set their roots and provide local food.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 02:47:52 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<copyright>&#xA9;Peaceful Valley </copyright>
		<managingEditor>freshmanfarmer@groworganic.com (Peaceful Valley)</managingEditor>
		<webMaster>freshmanfarmer@groworganic.com(Peaceful Valley)</webMaster>
		<category>Organic Farming &amp; Gardening</category>
		<ttl>1440</ttl>
		<itunes:keywords>organic, farmer, growing, natural, environment, green, eco, organic farming</itunes:keywords>
		<itunes:subtitle>Peaceful Valley sponsors a young organic farmer working the land for the first year. GrowOrganic.com</itunes:subtitle>
		<itunes:summary>Andrew Meyers is a 23 year old organic farmer. This year is his first year working the land on his own.

Follow his growing season as he starts a 30 member CSA, navigates the tribulations of growing organically, and finds a way to become a valuable member of his community.

Peaceful Valley is a local organic seed and farm supply company who is sponsoring a young farmer. The "Freshman Farmer" is going to grow organic, share his lessons learned, and become a part of their community.

By giving Andrew Meyers a head start, others will be able to learn, and hopefully will be inspired to go out and start their own CSA, growing healthy, local food.

Watch Andrew as he starts a CSA and grows organic. Follow his farming journals at FreshmanFarmer.GrowOrganic.com</itunes:summary>
		<itunes:author>Peaceful Valley</itunes:author>
		<itunes:category text="Society &amp; Culture"/>
<itunes:category text="Education"/>
<itunes:category text="Health"/>
		<itunes:owner>
			<itunes:name>Peaceful Valley</itunes:name>
			<itunes:email>freshmanfarmer@groworganic.com</itunes:email>
		</itunes:owner>
		<itunes:block>No</itunes:block>
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			<url>http://freshmanfarmer.groworganic.com/images/ituneslogo_freshman_144.jpg</url>
			<title>Freshman Farmer - New Organic Farms Set Roots</title>
			<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com</link>
			<width>144</width>
			<height>144</height>
		</image>
		<item>
		<title>Starting Seeds</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/how-to/2010/03/starting-seeds/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/how-to/2010/03/starting-seeds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 02:47:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Vanessa</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[How-To Tips & Tricks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Farms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Willow Springs Farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fertilizer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hoop house]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seeds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil blocking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2177</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In Eliot Coleman&#8217;s book &#8220;The New Organic Grower&#8220;, he describes an intriguing process of starting seeds. Instead of the traditional plastic containers and flats, he recommends using a tool called a soil blocker. The soil blocker is filled with &#8220;blocking mix&#8221; and presses out squares with an indent for planting your seed. I was immediately [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=7027c8d6b8fd27195523a094b9bd66f9&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><div id="_mcePaste">In Eliot Coleman&#8217;s book &#8220;<a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_BF900_The_New_Organic_Grower.html">The New Organic Grower</a>&#8220;, he describes an intriguing process of starting seeds. Instead of the traditional plastic containers and flats, he recommends using a tool called a soil blocker. The soil blocker is filled with &#8220;blocking mix&#8221; and presses out squares with an indent for planting your seed. I was immediately on board with this method. It reduces our plastic consumption and provides a more suitable home for our seeds (less likely to dry out and no fear of root boundedness).</div>
<p>
Unfortunately, the soil blockers can be hard to come by. They are <a href="http://www.ladbrooke.co.uk/">hand-made in England </a>and shipped over to the U.S. by only a few distributors and they can be rather pricey. They are available through <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/search.html?pCommand=DoSearch&amp;pMode=Search&amp;sText=soil%20blockers&amp;sCategory=catalog">Peaceful Valley</a> (order early in the growing season as they can take a while coming from England). I also recommend buying the book, &#8220;<a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_GP049_Soil_Blocker_Booklet.html">Transplants in Soil Blocks</a>&#8221; from PV as well.</p>
<div id="_mcePaste">Based on the size of our operation (we anticipate making about 20,000 starts for the spring/summer growing season), we opted for the <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_GP048_Soil_Blockers___Professional_Flo.html">professional stand up floor soil blocker</a> that can make 12 2&#8243; blocks at a time. This is the ideal size for starting most seeds. In fact we are starting all but 4 vegetables from seed (we are direct seeding carrots, parsnips, rutabaga, and radishes).</div>
<p><div>[[Show as slideshow]]</div>
<p><div></div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Blocking Mix Recipe (adapted from Eliot Coleman&#8217;s recipe):<span id="more-2177"></span></div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">30 oz. <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_PSO113_Beats_Peat_3_Cu_Ft_Brick.html">coco fiber</a> (we are using this instead of peat moss)</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">1/2 cup of <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_F1850_Oyster_Shell_Lime_50_Lb.html">oyster shell lime</a></div>
<div id="_mcePaste">20 oz. <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_PSO150_Perlite_4_Cu_Ft_Bag.html">perlite </a>(I&#8217;ve heard you can use rice hulls instead of perlite &#8211; something I am curious to try out)</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Mix thoroughly.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">10 oz garden soil (dug from our garden and sifted through a 1/2&#8243; hardware cloth)</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">20 oz compost</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">1 1/2 cups fertilizer mix (equal parts <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_F1120_Greensand_50_Lb.html">greensand</a>, <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_F101_Blood_Meal_50_Lb.html">blood meal</a>, and <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_F2101_Calphos_Soft_Rock_Phosphate__Reg.html">soft rock phosphate</a>)</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Mix thoroughly.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Add water. (The best advice I heard was that the consistency of the mix should resemble oatmeal &#8211; wet but not runny. I usually add about a 4:1 ratio of mix to water.)</div>
<p><div></div>
<div>A double batch of this mix fits perfectly in a 32 gallon trash can. Each batch makes approximately 250 2&#8243; soil blocks.</div>
<div></div>
<p><div>To make the soil blocks, I spread our mix out on a tarp in our hoop house with a 3 sided plywood tray ready and waiting. First, I make sure that the mix is wet enough by feeling it. Then I plunge the soil blocker into a large pile of mix, twisting side-to-side to fill it and rocking back and forth to ensure it doesn&#8217;t fall out. I then quickly and effortlessly lift the tool and scrape off any extra mix with either the side of the table/board or my hand. I then place the blocker directly on my tray and eject the 12 seed homes. The whole process takes about 30 seconds.</div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">For our heat loving plants (tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants), we started them using a <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_GP045_Soil_Blockers__34_Mini_Blocker_2.html">3/4 inch soil blocker</a>. I am not sure this is worth it. While more of them fit on the heat mats, they dry out too quickly. I think for our second seeding I will be sticking with 2&#8243; blocks. We will &#8220;pot them on&#8221; to 4&#8243; soil blocks once they get bigger. The 4&#8243; soil blockers come with built in inserts that press a 2&#8243; hole in the top of the block perfect for potting on.</div>
<p><div></div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">I am really excited about how well this mix and method seems to be working for our seedlings. The germination rates are very high in our hoop house. We will be planting our first seedlings of broccoli, lettuces, cabbage, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, and beets outdoors early next week.</div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Cover Crops and Compost</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/ellwood/2010/03/2166/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/ellwood/2010/03/2166/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 06:26:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jack</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ellwood Canyon Farms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cover crops]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil builder mix]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2166</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello all,
Everything is going good here at Ellwood Canyon.  With a break in the rainy weather I am making a big push to prepare my next section for planting.   Here is a step by step of the process:
1)Planted peaceful valley&#8217;s soil builder cover crop mix in December.
2)Mowed and turned under the cover [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=610ea559f3d5e3d229249ea186382ca5&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><p>Hello all,</p>
<p>Everything is going good here at Ellwood Canyon.  With a break in the rainy weather I am making a big push to prepare my next section for planting.   Here is a step by step of the process:</p>
<p>1)Planted peaceful valley&#8217;s soil builder cover crop mix in December.<br />
2)Mowed and turned under the cover crop just as it began to flower the 3rd week in February (the flowering stage is when legumes are at their highest nitrogen fixation point).<br />
3)Let the ground sit for a couple weeks to allow the plant debris to decompose.<br />
4)Spread a thick layer of compost (about 12 tons on a 1/6 of an acre)<br />
5)Till and mix the compost into to ground<br />
6)Shape beds<br />
7)Lay mulch (only for certain crops)</p>
<p>8)Plant</p>
<p>I am currently on step 4 and hope to have this section ready to plant by the end of next week depending how the weather behaves.</p>
<p>Here are some photos:</p>
<p>Cover crop:[[Show as slideshow]]</p>
<p>Compost:[[Show as slideshow]]</p>
<p>Thanks for reading,</p>
<p>Jack Motter</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Pollinators</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/driftwood/2010/03/pollinators/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/driftwood/2010/03/pollinators/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 18:17:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Angela</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Driftwood Farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bee hives]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beneficials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[good bug blend]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[honeybees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[native bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Orchard Mason Bees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pollinators]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[top bar hives]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2153</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When I first started to write this post, my intention was to segue into photos of our top bar hives &#8211; the first of which Matt completed today! &#8211; with information on the importance of honeybees to agriculture (and the economics of agriculture).
Most gardeners and farmers are accustomed to embracing the important role that bees play.  While doing some [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=30bd5db72a33c6c4bb0d3d0837fc811d&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><p>When I first started to write this post, my intention was to segue into photos of our top bar hives &#8211; the first of which Matt completed today! &#8211; with information on the importance of honeybees to agriculture (and the <em>economics</em> of agriculture).[[Show as slideshow]]</p>
<p>Most gardeners and farmers are accustomed to embracing the important role that bees play.  While doing some research for those impressive numbers &#8211; the billions of dollars and percentages of crops to be credited to honeybees &#8211; I learned that other pollinators, including the 3500 or so species of bees native to North America (honeybees are European) &#8211; are far more important.  They &#8211; like honeybees &#8211; are also <a href="http://www.nap.edu/openbook.php?record_id=11761&amp;page=1">in peril</a>.</p>
<p><span id="more-2153"></span></p>
<p>Luckily, many sources exist that provide information and materials to help out our native bees.  <a href="http://attra.ncat.org/">ATTRA</a> provides an excellent reference paper called &#8220;<a href="http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/nativebee.html">Alternative Pollinators:  Native Bees</a>.&#8221;  The National Wildlife Federation gives information, and instructions on building a &#8220;<a href="http://www.nwf.org/Get-Outside/Outdoor-Activities/Garden-for-Wildlife/Gardening-Tips/Build-a-Bee-House.aspx?CFID=26614867&amp;CFTOKEN=501ff84f292b2d6d-32340E17-5056-A868-A03C2D4A366FD6FA">bee house</a>.&#8221; Peaceful Valley sells a <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_BO550_The_Orchard_Mason_Bee.html">book</a>, <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_PBE2010_Orchard_Mason_Bee_Nesting_Block.html">nesting block</a>, and other materials to encourage populations of the Orchard Mason bee.  People living in areas with lots of unmanaged open space may not need to provide nesting habitat, but it might help to plant permanent, undisturbed places with pollen and nectar sources &#8211; <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_PBE970_Good_Bug_Blend_Lb.html">Good Bug Blend</a> being one option.  We have purchased some of this seed mix and will soon establish a permanent planting.</p>
<p>We will definitely continue with our plans for keeping honeybees for pollination and for honey, but we will pay more attention to the needs of our native bee friends.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Gopher Broke</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/2010/03/gopher-broke/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/2010/03/gopher-broke/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Mar 2010 17:40:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Matthew</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[The Farms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Willow Springs Farm]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2142</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The runner-up title for this post was &#8220;Carpe Gopher.&#8221;

Pest control, unlike composting, is a process I haven&#8217;t really devoted much time to&#8230;yet.  However, this week has provided us with two opportunities to dive right in.


A few days ago, Vanessa noticed that something had taken a liking to our Italian kale sprouts, but no other plants, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=2f5dc21acce9604cadd7c77ba3f1b3d7&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><div id="_mcePaste">The runner-up title for this post was &#8220;Carpe Gopher.&#8221;</div>
<div></div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">Pest control, unlike composting, is a process I haven&#8217;t really devoted much time to&#8230;yet.  However, this week has provided us with two opportunities to dive right in.</div>
<p><div><span id="more-2142"></span></div>
<div><img title="More..." src="http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/wp-includes/js/tinymce/plugins/wordpress/img/trans.gif" alt="" /></div>
<div id="_mcePaste">A few days ago, Vanessa noticed that something had taken a liking to our Italian kale sprouts, but no other plants, including our other kales.   A little bit of research led us to believe that it was either slugs or earwigs, and we set up beer and oil stations accordingly.  Two days pass, and nothing happens. No more kale damage, and, surprisingly, no critters in the traps.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">This was not the case with the other traps I set.</div>
<div></div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">I&#8217;ve known about the gopher issue on our property since the beginning; it&#8217;s hard to miss the numerous piles scattered around the farm, or to walk around for a day without falling into a trough that is just deep enough to twist your ankle.  I had bought a <a href="http://gophertrapping.com/">Macabee &#8220;Old Reliable&#8221; trap</a> and haphazardly shoved it down any fresh gopher hole I could find.  A few fruitless days of this led me to do some more research, where I learned more about our buck-toothed burrowing friends.  It turns out that all of the fresh holes you see dug up are feeding outposts that the gophers make off of their main burrow.  Sticking a trap in one of these burrows is an exercise in futility.  According to the sources I read, you are much more likely to trap a gopher by locating the main burrow, then placing two traps facing away from each other right inside. <a href="http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/filelibrary/2161/17313.pdf">Here&#8217;s a great page hosted by UC Davis</a> giving more detail about various gopher control methods (it&#8217;s a PDF, so you&#8217;ll need <a href="http://get.adobe.com/reader/">Adobe Acrobat Reader</a> to see it. Acrobat reader is free.).</div>
<div></div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">The last straw came while I was spreading some compost. I noticed a rustling and tip-toed closer only to see a three foot tall piece of rye grass getting sucked into a burrow. I won&#8217;t lie, I tried to kill the gopher with a shovel.</div>
<div></div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">The strategic advantage came later. I was talking to my neighbor and randomly picking up clumps of rye grass, when one of the clumps came up so easily that I almost fell over backwards pulling it out. Lo and behold, a tennis-ball sized burrow was underneath. I ran back to the house to grab some other traps (Victor brand traps, available through Peaceful Valley, <a href="http://www.groworganic.com/item_PAT581_Victor_Gopher_Traps_Pack_Of_2.html">click here</a>) and set them up in the preferred way.</div>
<div></div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">Less than 24 hours later&#8230;.Matt 1, gopher, 0.  Traps definitely work, you just need to put in the time (or in my case, have some luck) to find a main burrow.  In addition to the traps, I plan on building a barn owl nesting box to put up on the property, which would save us the trouble of finding creative ways to dispose of gopher carcasses.  Keep your fingers crossed. <img src='http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </div>
<p><a href="http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1542.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2143" title="154" src="http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1542.jpg" alt="" /></a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Hurry Up &amp; Wait</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/deepseeded/2010/03/hurry-up-wait/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/deepseeded/2010/03/hurry-up-wait/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Mar 2010 04:00:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Eddie</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[DeepSeeded Community Farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[carrots]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[early beds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[greenhouses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lettuce]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[peas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2129</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With the greenhouse work completed for the moment, I find myself waiting for the next dry stretch.  In the last few breaks in the weather, we were able to weed garlic &#38; strawberries, begin fruit tree planting, and plant out the remainder of our extra-early beds.  I had prepped and mulched over some beds in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=f098623ffa0c0d4a547fa3a81785c500&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><p>With the greenhouse work completed for the moment, I find myself waiting for the next dry stretch.  In the last few breaks in the weather, we were able to weed garlic &amp; strawberries, begin fruit tree planting, and plant out the remainder of our extra-early beds.  I had prepped and mulched over some beds in the fall, and we have just finished seeding, transplanting, and row-covering these beds.  There are two successions of peas and carrots that will likely be ready for the first CSA shares in late May, and we also planted Lettuce, Broccoli, Baby Bok Choi, and Spinach for early Farmer&#8217;s Markets in April &amp; May.  These will complement the early crops now occupying the greenhouses.</p>
<p>The question <em>now</em> is how soon &#8217;till the soil dries up enough to work in cover crop and begin making the new season&#8217;s beds.  Hopefully it won&#8217;t be too long&#8230;</p>
[[Show as slideshow]]
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Financials &#8211; Small Hoop House</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/coyotehouse/2010/03/financials-small-hoop-house/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/coyotehouse/2010/03/financials-small-hoop-house/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Mar 2010 04:03:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coyote House Farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Farm Financials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[costs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hoop house]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[materials]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2127</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Our new small hoop house is adorable, but is it financially sound?
Here is the bottom line on the financials for a 5&#8242;x5&#8242; hoop house.
Raised bed &#8211; recycled scrap wood.  $0
Wood screws to construct raised bed &#8211; $8.67.
PVC pipes &#8211; 1/2&#8243; inner diameter, 10&#8242; length (5 at $1.16 each) &#8211; $5.80
3/4&#8243; copper 2-hole pipe straps, package [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=4ea982f312d22622f3b629ebc2e3348b&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><p>Our new small hoop house is adorable, but is it financially sound?</p>
<p>Here is the bottom line on the financials for a 5&#8242;x5&#8242; hoop house.</p>
<p>Raised bed &#8211; recycled scrap wood.  $0</p>
<p>Wood screws to construct raised bed &#8211; $8.67.</p>
<p>PVC pipes &#8211; 1/2&#8243; inner diameter, 10&#8242; length (5 at $1.16 each) &#8211; $5.80</p>
<p>3/4&#8243; copper 2-hole pipe straps, package of 25 (we used all but 1) &#8211; $11.12</p>
<p>Wood screws to affix pipe straps &#8211; $2.00</p>
<p>So far, the hoop house has cost us $27.59.</p>
<p>In addition, the hoop house will need a covering and clips to attach the covering to the structure.  Materials for that are on order, as follows:</p>
<p>7.5 oz PolyMax All-Purpose Fabric, Clear 120&#8243; (quantity 15 feet) &#8211; $45.00</p>
<p>Labor Saver Fabric Clip, .706&#8243; OD pipe, 20 @ $.80 each &#8211; $16.00</p>
<p>Total cost of hoop house with covering:  $88.59</p>
<p>Dan</p>
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		<title>Building a hoop house</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/coyotehouse/2010/02/building-a-hoop-house/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/coyotehouse/2010/02/building-a-hoop-house/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 04:49:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coyote House Farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[How-To Tips & Tricks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bracing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hoop house]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Straw Bale]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tarp]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2124</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Today we used a plan from groworganics.com to build a small hoop house, where we can start our tomatoes.
Check out the plans we used here:
http://intheloop.groworganic.com/2009/04/how-to-make-a-hoophouse-on-a-raised-bed/
It was up in about 2 hours and that includes patching together the 4 sides from scrap wood, salvaged from construction of our straw bale field shed.  We had 18 pieces [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=4ea982f312d22622f3b629ebc2e3348b&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><p>Today we used a plan from groworganics.com to build a small hoop house, where we can start our tomatoes.</p>
<p>Check out the plans we used here:</p>
<p>http://intheloop.groworganic.com/2009/04/how-to-make-a-hoophouse-on-a-raised-bed/</p>
<p>It was up in about 2 hours and that includes patching together the 4 sides from scrap wood, salvaged from construction of our straw bale field shed.  We had 18 pieces of 2&#215;6, each 27 inches long, sitting around from having trimmed them off the ends of our floor joists, so we bound them into patchword sides for a raised bed by using short sections of 2&#215;4s to connect the 2&#215;6 lengths, 4 per side.</p>
<p>What a great opportunity to use even more of our remarkably meager scrap from the straw bale project!  Drew was amazing at estimating materials, and our scrap pile is VERY tiny &#8212; and getting tinier.</p>
<p>Here is a set of pictures documenting the hoop house construction today.  We made just two changes to the original plan:  (1) we attached the hoop brackets inside, instead of outside, of the raised bed.  Hopefully this won&#8217;t impact our efforts to attach the tarp &#8212; which we&#8217;ll do 2 weeks from now.  We also plan to bolster the whole thing, and the tarp edges, by bracing the sides between damp straw bales.  (2) We added a horizontal strip of PVC to the front and back, as a way of anchoring the &#8220;door&#8221; portion of the tarp.</p>
[[Show as slideshow]]
<p>We&#8217;ll be tarping and planting next weekend.</p>
<p>Dan</p>
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		<title>Betting the  Farm on Love</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/handsown/2010/02/betting-the-farm-on-love/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/handsown/2010/02/betting-the-farm-on-love/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Feb 2010 20:59:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jared</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hand Sown Homegrown Heritage Farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chickens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seeding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2117</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Blog Followers,
It’s so good to be back here on the blog.   We have spent a lot of time this winter adjusting our lives to the wide range of changes that take place once a couple turns  together to a life of farming as their fulltime occupation.  Sara and I have been married just over [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=07096492b87b165a1b69ec44a6fee08a&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/>[[Show as slideshow]]
<p>Dear Blog Followers,</p>
<p>It’s so good to be back here on the blog.   We have spent a lot of time this winter adjusting our lives to the wide range of changes that take place once a couple turns  together to a life of farming as their fulltime occupation.  Sara and I have been married just over a year, and for the last three years we’ve been tending the earth and planting seeds together, a life skill we completely lacked before that&#8217;s now an occupation for two rather than a hobby.</p>
<p>I’m fortunate to be farming another season side by side with Sara, who believes in all my abilities and is a constant reminder to turn to trust, and love.  It’s my main objective this season that I share with my wife, more  hugs and kisses than farming woes.</p>
<p>Seeds are being sown and the hand tools have met the soil.</p>
<p>We lack the money and supplies to start seeding our tomatoes… a bit concerning.</p>
<p>CSA shares are coming in slow and sparse.  I&#8217;m really bummed that the largest CSA farm in WA, Full Circle Farm, (which also ships CSA shares to Alaska) is delivering CSA shares to our  community some 103 miles away&#8230;  It seems odd to have to state this but, I highly encourage people to purchase Community Supportive Agriculture from farms in their own community, with the farm owners being the farmers.</p>
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		<title>Tree Planting</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/coyotehouse/2010/02/tree-planting/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/coyotehouse/2010/02/tree-planting/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2010 04:54:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Coyote House Farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[How-To Tips & Tricks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fungus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gopher baskets]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[orchard]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trees]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2110</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We&#8217;ve been working on Orchard 2, the second of our two existing orchards, the past couple of weekends.  The soil is right for digging and our gypsum amendment has had some time to work into the soil, so although we trampled our still-infant cover crop a bit, the time was right to put in this [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=4ea982f312d22622f3b629ebc2e3348b&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><p>We&#8217;ve been working on Orchard 2, the second of our two existing orchards, the past couple of weekends.  The soil is right for digging and our gypsum amendment has had some time to work into the soil, so although we trampled our still-infant cover crop a bit, the time was right to put in this year&#8217;s new baby trees.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a picture of Orchard 2, its fledging cover crop, and the new trees.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Orchard-2.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2111" title="Orchard 2" src="http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Orchard-2.jpg" alt="" /></a></p>
<p>We had a lot of fun with this planting, because we waited for the right time to dig, plus the weather was fantastic, and we are right on the cusp of that magical time when everything is emerald green.  Not there yet, but almost &#8211; I find myself holding my breath, waiting for it.</p>
<p>This is our second year of planting trees, and we learned from our efforts last year.  We put the trees into Orchard 2, which is slightly higher than Orchard 1 and on a slight slope.  Our hope is to avoid the problems we ran into with Orchard 1, where we ended up with fungus and cold weather damage, due to Orchard 1&#8217;s location in a spot of lowest relative elevation where the damp and cold settled.  Also, we amended with gypsum and cover crop to improve the soil&#8217;s texture &#8211; making digging easier but also hopefully helping the new trees get a better start.  Lastly, we used gopher baskets, taking advice we heard after planting our trees last year.</p>
<p>Gopher baskets are a bit costly, so I hope they are effective.  We definitely have a lot of gophers in the meadow between Orchard 1 and Orchard 2.</p>
<p>I thought it would be fun to include a series of tree planting pictures, a kind of &#8220;how to&#8221; to document our process.  I felt pretty clever with my use of the trenching shovel to define the sides of the holes, and the spade to do the actual earth moving.  These are much better dug holes than last year, that&#8217;s for sure!</p>
[[Show as slideshow]]
<p>Happy spring,</p>
<p>Dan</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Getting all my ducks lined up</title>
		<link>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/2010/02/getting-all-my-ducks-lined-up/</link>
		<comments>http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/farms/2010/02/getting-all-my-ducks-lined-up/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:21:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dustin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[The Farms]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/?p=2101</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Like most other farmers in Northern California I am getting a respite from the field due to some rainy weather.  I used my time away from the field to pay a visit to the Humboldt County Agriculture Department to get the ball rolling on my organic certification.  I had an in formative meeting with the Ag/weights [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img style='float: left; margin-right: 10px; border: none;' src='http://www.gravatar.com/avatar.php?gravatar_id=f31fab07d1696411fc8bdcdcc5e70d38&amp;default=http://use.perl.org/images/pix.gif' alt='No Gravatar' width=40 height=40/><p>Like most other farmers in Northern California I am getting a respite from the field due to some rainy weather.  I used my time away from the field to pay a visit to the Humboldt County Agriculture Department to get the ball rolling on my organic certification.  I had an in formative meeting with the Ag/weights &amp; measures inspector who helped me understand all the paperwork required.     Basically, all inputs need to be accounted for including seeds and amendments.  Also, since I am a new operation the past three years of my leased farmland need to be detailed so far as inputs and activity go.  The last step after all the paperwork will be to have an on site inspection.  It is a lot of work, but the result is that when a customer picks out a tomato at market they are assured that it is truly an organic product.</p>
<p>p.s. I have included a few pictures, in order they are: 1. Downriver half of the property which will be the 2010 garden  2. Upriver half which will be farmed in the future 3. Hoeing garlic 4. Young garlic 5. Coco</p>
<div class="ngg-galleryoverview"><div class="slideshowlink"><a class="slideshowlink" href="http://www.freshmanfarmer.com/nggallery/post/getting-all-my-ducks-lined-up/images">[Show picture list]</a></div>[[Show as slideshow]]</div>
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